From the Mongolian steppe to the imperial palace - the history of the Beijing hotpot.

Kitty Cai Allegro, 27 November 2024
The "little snow" in China's 24 solar terms is already here. While Switzerland has already welcomed its first snow, this time of year always brings back memories of winter in Beijing. The streets of the capital are filled with the smell of freshly cooked mutton coming from every corner and attracting passers-by. This is a Beijing-style hotpot, where the bubbling copper pot holds not only thin slices of mutton, but also the city's rich cultural heritage and culinary charm. In contrast to the fiery, numbing sensation of the Chongqing hotpot, the Beijing hotpot focuses on simplicity - a light broth that brings out the natural flavours of the ingredients and leaves a long-lasting, unobtrusive satisfaction.

The copper pot: the centrepiece of Beijing's food culture

The centrepiece of the Peking stew is the traditional copper pot, which is fired with charcoal. This old-fashioned heating method is irreplaceable for its even heat and the subtle smoke it adds to the dining experience. The broth is deliberately kept simple, usually just water with a few slices of ginger and spring onions, so that the quality of the mutton takes centre stage. The hand-cut lamb is the soul of this dish and the preparation of the meat is an art in itself. Each slice is as thin as a single sheet of paper, revealing its intricate marbling. 

A quick dip in the bubbling broth cooks the meat to perfection in seconds, leaving it tender, juicy and full of natural flavour. Choosing the right lamb is equally important; the most prized meat comes from young lambs raised on the lush pastures of Inner Mongolia, especially the hind leg, which is tender and free of any gamey flavour.

From the steppe to the imperial court - the history of stew

The origins of Beijing stew can be traced back to the Mongolian steppes at the time of the Yuan Dynasty. Legend has it that Genghis Khan's troops, who were constantly on the move, needed quick yet nutritious meals. Thin slices of mutton were briefly boiled in water, which kept them tender and fresh. As this method of preparation spread to south-central China, it was gradually refined and honed, eventually becoming a typical delicacy in the capital. 

In the Qing dynasty, this type of stew earned a place on imperial tables and was a symbol of sophistication and local pride. Lao She, the famous Chinese writer, even captured the essence of Beijing stew in his works, immortalising it as an essential element of the city's identity.
Yuan and Qing dynasties: from military dish to delicacy

The sesame dipping sauce - an underrated star

The experience wouldn't be complete without the iconic sesame dipping sauce. Thick, creamy and richly nutty, it is customised with a range of ingredients to suit individual tastes: Leek flower sauce for a spicy kick, fermented bean curd for umami depth, coriander for freshness and chilli oil for a spicy note. The result is a velvety dip that goes perfectly with the tender lamb. A freshly cooked piece of mutton generously coated in this flavoursome sauce will make anyone forget the bitter cold of winter.

"Sweat in summer, warm in winter"

Although stew is the quintessential winter dish, it is a year-round favourite in Beijing. There is a local saying: "In summer you sweat it out with stew, in winter it warms the soul. Even in the height of summer, enthusiastic eaters gather at the outdoor hotpot places, where the tables are set up under shady pavilions. The contrast between eating a steaming stew and a cool evening breeze is a unique sensory delight.

One dish, one heritage - Why Beijing's stew is addictive

Beijing stews are more than just a meal, they are a lifestyle and a celebration of togetherness. The pace is leisurely, inviting diners to savour the experience while sharing stories and laughter around the table. The rising steam and bubbling broth create an atmosphere of warmth, not only physically but also emotionally, reflecting the cosy, convivial spirit of old Beijing. It reflects a culture that values not only the food itself, but also the connections and moments shared over a meal.
Aside from its flavours, Beijing stew is also a legacy of history and tradition. From humble roadside restaurants to centuries-old establishments, the copper pot has witnessed generations of stories, love and laughter. Every bite of lamb is a flavour of the city's lingering warmth and rich soul. As the broth thickens over time, so do the bonds at the table. Eating a Beijing stew immerses you in the flavours, history and vibrant community of the city. One meal and you're hooked for life.
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